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Tropheus Disease, Health and Nutrition Discussion of Tropheus diseases, general health, nutrition and water conditions.

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  #1  
Old 06-05-2012
Mastiffman
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Default Thoughts on Water Hardness and T. Moorii?

I know that hardness fo water has an aafect ont he colors of most African Cichlids.

I have watched my Chimbas color over a short time with the change of water hardness due to adding Epsom salts. Mor and they start getting a Very high level of Contrast and lines start to develop between variantions of color on their heads. The Blue around their mouoths stops blending with the red... When I lower the hardness by reducing the amount of ES added during water changes, they seem to be more of a Brigt red and not as dark velvet of a red...

I'm wondering if it might be better to keep the hardness lower for moorii or not...

Waht do you guys think about this notion?
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Old 06-05-2012
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I just finished a 50% water change and I always add ES, I never really see a true color change but since I started using epsom salts I have seen a great change in the way that my RR act after a water change to the positive. They are more active then previous water changes. They have not reproduced keepers yet but I am confident that I am moving in the right direction.
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Old 06-05-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by new2troph View Post
I just finished a 50% water change and I always add ES, I never really see a true color change but since I started using epsom salts I have seen a great change in the way that my RR act after a water change to the positive. They are more active then previous water changes. They have not reproduced keepers yet but I am confident that I am moving in the right direction.
Yep, just keep at it...
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Old 06-05-2012
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i have been keeping trophs for 7 years ang never add anything but prime and regular poolsalt to my tanks and all my tropheous are full colour and top notch show quality but my water here is very hard direct from the tap so that why i dont need es
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Old 06-05-2012
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I only add prime. Consistency is king with these fish. If tap is above 7 and relatively hard, then I would not mess with it in any way. Only time I add salt is to help heal wounds. Only other exception is Epsom salts if anything looks iffy.
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Old 06-06-2012
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Gotcha
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Old 06-06-2012
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I always add epsom salts and sodium bicarbonate! water from the tap after leaving for 24hours the pH is 6.5, KH is 3 and the GH is around 2! So way to low for tanganyikans so I buffer till the pH is 8.2/3, KH 17 and GH around 12!
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Old 06-06-2012
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A wise tropheus keeper and breeder once told me "people who tinker with their water chemistry kill their trophs.". Consistency is the key to successful tropheus keeping. Clean water and good food is all they need thrive. I only add prime to all my tanks.
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Old 06-06-2012
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Originally Posted by dww-law View Post
A wise tropheus keeper and breeder once told me "people who tinker with their water chemistry kill their trophs.". Consistency is the key to successful tropheus keeping. Clean water and good food is all they need thrive. I only add prime to all my tanks.

pretty bad advice if your wanting to keep wild caught fish in water that from the tap is 6.5 when there living in water of a pH of 8.3 and above!!!!!!
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Okay then don't listen to it It's a rule I have followed for years with ALL my WC trophs, petros and frontosa's. Over the years, there have been just few people on here who have killed just a few trophs by tinkering with their water chemistry. But hey, what do I know


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pretty bad advice if your wanting to keep wild caught fish in water that from the tap is 6.5 when there living in water of a pH of 8.3 and above!!!!!!
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