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Tropheus Disease, Health and Nutrition Discussion of Tropheus diseases, general health, nutrition and water conditions.

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  #11  
Old 11-24-2013
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I just finished, fish seems to be fine and active.. The only thing I add are seachem safe and epsom salt..

thanks for everybody's input.
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  #12  
Old 11-24-2013
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If this was your petro tank than I'm sure there was no problem. I'm pretty sure you could throw a petro in a reef tank and it would live for years lol!
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  #13  
Old 11-24-2013
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If this was your petro tank than I'm sure there was no problem. I'm pretty sure you could throw a petro in a reef tank and it would live for years lol!
Yeap it was for the petro.... I'm sure they will do just fine. They are pretty hardy and I don't think they ever get full either!
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  #14  
Old 11-24-2013
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Originally Posted by Toneloc View Post
thanks rhick! I'm doing the water change now..

I was just being cautious since I haven't done it and wanted to hear from others with experience..
I guess what I would be concerned with is that although the others are correct with the locations of the BB Colony... What is the amount of exposure time of Chloramine and Chlorines and even fluoride that BB needs to be in contact with before it's starts to Died off.

If you are not diluting the New Water in with tank water, even though you are adding a water treatment to neutralize the chlorine and chloramine, would this cause a mass die off of BB overall?

Me Myself, I probably wouldn't do something like that just to stay on the safe side of the spectrum. I would Definitely keep and eye the Ammonia and Nitrite levels over the next few days to a week. I would probably also take some aged filter media from one of your other tanks and just shake it out Clean into the take that you did the 100% water change on... This will boost the BB colony just in case.

The Bottom line is that you're Better safe than Sorry! You have some Beautiful Fish man. Would be sad to see you loose any to a simple of a mistake as this one.

Another good practice in a situation like this is to mix up the substrate as you start to drain the tank. This will bring large particles of Detritus into the water Column and mostly be sucked out into the drain hose.
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  #15  
Old 11-24-2013
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I have found that anything on the bottom other than sand will trap detritus. I use the python tube and just suck up the area around rocks and plants. I would not try and vacuum up too much of the sand with the large water changes, but I would make sure that the prefilter is clean, as that is the easiest and quickest way to get the bulk of the mess out of the tank.
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  #16  
Old 11-24-2013
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Since water had been change 100% & with the concern of bb I would probably add API stress zyme on it.
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  #17  
Old 11-25-2013
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What I did was drain half of the tank water and then started pouring new water. Added safe every 5-10min. Petros were active and eating before I left for work. I will check parameters when I get off work and give an update.

Should I get seachem stability just to be safe?
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Old 11-25-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toneloc View Post
What I did was drain half of the tank water and then started pouring new water. Added safe every 5-10min. Petros were active and eating before I left for work. I will check parameters when I get off work and give an update.

Should I get seachem stability just to be safe?
I think that was probbly the best bet. Nothing wrong with being precautious.
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  #19  
Old 11-25-2013
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Originally Posted by Toneloc View Post
What I did was drain half of the tank water and then started pouring new water. Added safe every 5-10min. Petros were active and eating before I left for work. I will check parameters when I get off work and give an update.

Should I get seachem stability just to be safe?
I would just to be safe
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  #20  
Old 11-25-2013
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Originally Posted by Mastiffman View Post
I think that was probbly the best bet. Nothing wrong with being precautious.
Thanks Andrew! Ill get some tomorrow...
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