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Tropheus Tanks & Equipment Discussion of tanks, filters, heaters, lighting, UV and other equipment.

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Old 09-22-2015
rstephenson
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Default Plumbing questions

I'm setting up a tank that is predrilled (on the bottom) and has built in overflow boxes.
I'm putting in new plumbing. Should ALL of the plumbing be glued together ? Is it supposed to glue to the bulkhead also, or is that a press fitting ?...
Thanks !!
Any other suggestions will also be greatly appreciated. This is my first drilled tank
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Old 09-22-2015
Mastiffman
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Bulk heads are slipped through the bulkhead hole in the bottom of the tank (typically from the inside) with the rubber gasket/ washer/ oring on it. Then once through, the bulkhead nut is screwed on. Some people use Silicone in between the acrylic and the rubber gasket and between the rubber gasket and the surface of the bulkhead. Other use a silicone based lubricant that doesn't breakdown the rubber gasket.

Bulkheads can be purchased either as Slip (smooth inside for glue pipe into it) or Threaded. You can get them in Double Slip. Which will need gluing on either side or Double Threaded which will need Teflon tape on the male threaded piece going into it. As well as get them in a combination of one end slip and the other end threaded...

As far as the PVC plumbing, yes you should glue it together properly to avoid any leaks. You although, don't have to use the purple primer as it's only for high PSI Applications. Just the Cement will do. Put it on the inside of one piece and the outside of the other for best results as well as pushing the pipe into the fittings all of the way and then twisting the pipe 1/4 turn and then back another 1/4 turn.

My tip, forget the drain stand pipe in the tower. They don't make sense to me. Unless you are keeping a heater inside the overflow tower. It's better to keep the heater in the sump. Also, use a PVC Gate Valve (twists open and close like an outside water spigot). This way you can fine tune the drain line to match that of the return pump and not have to worry about any gurgling sound.

I had my drain line drop pipes right in the sump water as well. Which helps to alleviate draining noise.

Better yet, hook up a large canister filter to the overflow and return lines. I have this setup on all three of my bottom drilled overflow tanks. 1x 1880g, 1x 135g and 1x 110g Works Flawlessly and are dead quiet.
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Old 09-22-2015
rstephenson
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Thank you !
I ordered the double slip bulkheads. My main question was whether I needed to glue the pvc to the bulkhead or not. I worry about making things "too perminant" because then if I need to replace something...... you replace it all. BUT I suppose that beats having a leak !!!
I currently have a tank with a single overflow box. I'll use the same sump.

I guess having an aquarium with multiple HOLES in it is freaking me out a little
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Old 09-22-2015
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Yeah, you can use threaded bulkheads or slip. Doesn't matter really.

Yeah, those aren't the two most comforting words that you want to hear together.
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Old 09-26-2015
rstephenson
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Another question;
I got everything put together for now. The return standpipe in the tower is just set in place. I didn't see a point to glue them (at the time)
BUT it keeps popping up and just becoming an open hole at the bulkhead.
Is there a problem with just gluing EVERYTHING in place ?

Another concerm is that IF my pump stops and both towers slowly drain into the sump .......... the sump isn't big enough for that.

hopefully this made sense
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Old 09-26-2015
Mastiffman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rstephenson View Post
Another question;
I got everything put together for now. The return standpipe in the tower is just set in place. I didn't see a point to glue them (at the time)
BUT it keeps popping up and just becoming an open hole at the bulkhead.
Is there a problem with just gluing EVERYTHING in place ?

Another concerm is that IF my pump stops and both towers slowly drain into the sump .......... the sump isn't big enough for that.

hopefully this made sense
No Go Ahead and Glue it or glue a threaded piece down at the bottom so you can screw in the return pipe. And yeah, I guess I wasn't thinking that your could be small. Might be a good idea for drain stand pipes.

Not sure if I mentioned this but make sure to drill hole at the water level of your return nozzles. This will break siphon if you power goes out or if the pump fails (not likely though). So better safe than sorry .
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Old 09-26-2015
rstephenson
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I've got the holes drilled. I "flood proofed" my last tank but it had an external overflow box. A hang on back type. My sump and tank could equalize and be ok.
These towers are much bigger and I didn't factor in the water seeping past the standpipe and flooding the sump (if the pump quit)

If the water would stay in the tower, i'd be ok.

again, this is my first tank with the built in overflows
I was just trying no to glue the standpipe and not make it perminant ....... but I suppose that shouldn't matter and I'm just over thinking (and stressing) it all

Thanks a ton for the help !!
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Old 09-26-2015
Mastiffman
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Gotcha. No problem.

Yeah. Drain stand pipes dont typically have to glued in. But for the sake of safety they are best glued in. And they are usually at least a couple of inches below the overflow teeth of the tower.

For the return pipes (that come up through the overflow towers Im assuming) you can glue them as well. But if you have the room glue a 90 degree elbow at the top that is female threaded on the other end. This way you can unscrew the horizontal return pipe that drops the nozzles in the water and then the vertical pipe for ease of ckeaning the tower as they tend to collect detritus at the bottom over time.
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